Tech Advice

  • Car Advice
  • Motorcycle Advice

    • Checking the oil level of an automatic gearbox and power assisted steering

      Automatic gearbox: An automatic gearbox is a complex hydraulic system transmitting the engine power to the wheels, mainly by the oil it contains. Its quality and performances are therefore essential to ensure perfect operation, whatever the conditions, and also to promote longevity of the gearbox, a particularly expensive car part. These lubricants are specific and can in no case be replaced by engine or manual gearbox oil. It should also be borne in mind that drain operations (every 20 to 60,000 km depending on the vehicle) require a minimum of knowledge and tools. It is therefore preferable to entrust this operation to a professional to avoid doing anything wrong. On the other hand, checking the level of an automatic gearbox is a simple operation to be made every 10,000 km. Refer to your car's manual for details on this operation. As a general rule, you must turn the engine on and place the speed selector at position 'P'. Oil temperature also influences the level, so as a general rule you must carry out this check on a hot engine after it's been running for at least 10 minutes. For a precise check, first wipe the dipstick with a lint-free cloth, and also take care not to introduce any dirt into the hole. If the level is insufficient, pour some Dexron Motul down the dipstick hole. Take care: a few millilitres is enough as a complement, as the total content of the gearbox is generally low. High consumption of gearbox oil is abnormal. A level that has dropped is generally caused by a leak, which you must repair as soon as possible. Power assisted steering The power assisted steering of cars is generally hydraulic and requires, like automatic gearboxes, Dexron fluid, to operate correctly. This oil is therefore the same as that of automatic gearboxes but the two circuits are clearly separate. The hydraulic system of power assisted steering comprises a little reservoir in the engine compartment. It is translucent with marks showing the levels or it has a dipstick incorporated in the cap. To check the level, the engine must be turned off

      Coolants

      All you need to know on cooling liquids Your car engine automatically has a cooling system providing it with an ideal and constant running temperature, whatever the season. Liquid cooling systems, far more modern and effective, have become the rule in cars, superseding 'air' systems, which are still used in small-to-medium capacity motorcycles. Motul sells three ready-to-use liquids meeting all the specific characteristics of different cooling circuits. These products have three essential qualities: they ensure effective heat exchange while avoiding boiling, protect all the circuit internal elements (pump, radiator and engine) against corrosion, and guarantee strong resistance against frost, even at the lowest temperatures. For all these reasons, the use of pure water is proscribed and could cause irreparable damage to the mechanical parts. The products GL 25, and INUGEL type D have freezing points under -25°C. For even more extreme conditions, INUGEL 50 pushes back this limit to -35°C. All these products meet the AFNOR standard 15-601, INUGEL type D having been specifically developed and approved by Renault for its 'Type D' specifications and not being compatible with the other products. Now you know everything about cooling liquid, don't forget to have it drained every two years on average so that it always provides the best performances. Between these drains, if it changes colour and become brownish you should also replace it. In all cases, check the cooling liquid tank level and make it up if necessary. Do this operation with a cold engine and comply with the 'min' and 'max' marks. Do not unscrew the radiator cap if it has one: modern circuits are generally pressurised and require precise tools and a precise protocol for any intervention. Last, cooling liquid also feeds the passenger compartment heating system.

      Oil level

      Easily check your oil level between two drains All cars, whether a large sedan, racy sports car, or little city car, require well lubricated mechanical parts. Engine longevity is ensured, inter alia, by oil, provided this oil has very good performances and provided it fills the sump to capacity. For the first point, you can trust the entire range of Motul engine oils, but the second point requires you to check the level yourself, using the dipstick. With today's lubricants and new engines, it's sufficient to carry out this operation once every two thousand kilometres. On the other hand, for 'older' engines, this check should be made more often, approximately every thousand kilometres. To make a precise check of the oil level, wait till the engine is sufficiently warm (after running for 15 minutes) place your car on a level surface and switch off the ignition. Open the bonnet, pull the dipstick out (generally identifiable by a yellow, blue or red mark, depending on the make of car) and wipe it with a clean cloth. Reinsert the dipstick as far as it will go, wait for a few seconds before removing it again, and take the oil level reading. The oil should be between the two marks on the end of the stick, but in no case should be above or under. Too low a level of oil could cause serious engine damage for want of lubrication. If the oil level is close to 'min' you should add some after unscrewing the big cap generally located on top of the engine. If access is awkward, use a funnel to avoid spillage and, above all, ensure no foreign body enters the engine. All Motul packagings have the advantage of having a pull-out spout for quick and spill-free filling. They also have a graduated scale so you can add just the right volume of oil. The difference between the 'min' and 'max' marks varies by half a litre in small cars to several litres in high cubic capacity cars. Generally the car's manual mentions this characteristic. In all cases, add only a moderate complement and wait for several minutes for the oil to descend into the sump before checking the level again and adding more oil if necessary. Do not try to reach the maximum level. You could end up adding too much oil, which would cause excessive pressure damaging the lubrication circuit. Last, never place blind faith in the dashboard oil warning light: it generally indicates oil pressure and not the quantity of oil in the sump. In all cases, if this light comes on, even if only flickering, stop immediately and check the oil level. Specific case of 'dry sump' engines Some sports and prestige cars have an engine lubricated by a dry sump. Oil is then located in a large-quantity reservoir (more than ten litres) outside the engine. To check the level here, the engine absolutely must be running and you must follow the precise protocol for each car.

    • Oil Levels

      Check your oil level precisely and easily! Checking your motorcycle's oil level is a simple but essential operation once every thousand miles. To make a precise check of this level, prop your motorcycle on its center stand. If it only has a side stand, make sure you set your motorcycle perfectly upright a few seconds just before reading the dipstick. Most OEMs recommend running the engine two to three minutes so that the oil spreads throughout the internal lubrication circuit. After that, stop the engine, wait for a minute and read the level either using the dipstick or by looking through the little sight window on the sump. In the first case, unscrew the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it without screwing, and then take a precise reading. The correct level is located between the 'max' and 'min' marks, and must not be higher or lower. Too low a level of oil could cause serious engine damage for want of lubrication, whereas too high a level causes excessive pressure damaging the lubrication circuit and absorbing more power. If the level is too low, add just the right amount, be careful to not add too much oil. Proceed in stages and always wait for a few seconds for the oil to descend into the engine sump. To avoid introducing foreign bodies into the sump, especially fine dirt or sand, work in a clean area and clean around the dipstick or cap before unscrewing them. By following this advice, you can rest assured of safely riding your motorcycle. Do not place blind faith in the oil display to make this check! Additives proscribed! Motul lubricants are precisely formulated to take into account OEM's specifications and all the most recent approvals. They are therefore advanced products which perfectly meet all technical constraints. They comprise their own additives, selected for their qualities, and represent the best compromise between performances, protection and longevity. Adding an additive would be like modifying your lubricant and endangering the longevity of your engine. On the other hand, regular, careful maintenance of course promotes longevity. Last, motorcycle engine lubricant generally lubricates the gearbox and clutch and must be of precise and constant quality. All the Motul range of motorcycle lubricants perfectly meets these constraints, without any other additive being needed. 2-stroke - Injector In 2-stroke engines, oil is directly injected into the engine and therefore entirely used up. The word sump is no longer used but reservoir, which must be filled, along with gas. A red display lighting up indicates a low reservoir level. If it begins to flicker, fill up the reservoir as soon as possible with a specific Motul oil for 2-stroke injector engines.

      Fork Oil

      The fork, as the most important part of a motorcycle, it has the trickiest job of providing suspension for the front axle, thereby determining the comfort and quality of road behaviour and riding sensations. Whether upside-down or not, the fork remains above all a hydraulic system. Each fork arm encloses a precise quantity of oil, which is forced, under compression, to follow a precise, calibrated circuit, thereby providing suspension for the front suspension. If the fork has adjustments, these directly influence the size of the oil passages so as to modify the characteristics of the suspension and rebound, for instance. Some motorcycles have an oleopneumatic fork, which additionally requires a certain air pressure to operate correctly. When adjusting this pressure, make sure to use a special pump. Never use a tyre inflator, which would be too powerful. The most important element in a fork is of course the oil, which determines the motorcycle's road behaviour. As this oil is subject to high pressures and heating, it should periodically be replaced with a perfectly adapted quality. Replacing fork oil is no easy operation. It requires a large number of tools, especially to raise the motorcycle, and good knowledge of mechanics. Play safe and entrust this operation to a specialist. On the other hand, you can choose the viscosity (2.5W-5W to 20W-30) which best suits your motorcycle and your style of riding. A fork that's a bit soft or too hard can thus be corrected to suit you. Before replacing the oil, inspect the state of the 'spi' joints between the tubes and stanchions: if you detect the slightest leak, have a repair made before draining. Fork oil is to be replaced every 6,000 to 10,000 miles or once a year.

      Chain Lubrication

      Road Motocycles: A road motorcycle chain requires careful lubrication and adjustment every 2000 to 5000 miles. Two simple, but essential operations. A chain is correctly adjusted when its sag, i.e. its vertical mobility, should be between 3/4 and 1 inch (not too loose or too tight) in the most central position between the gearbox output pinion and the rear wheel sprocket. Make this check with a rag and on the lower chain run (the upper chain run is generally protected). Also check wheel alignment: the index marks on both sides of the swingarm must be at the same level. If you can push the chain up more than 1 inch, it has to much slack and must be tightened. To adjust its tension, you need a minimum amount of tools, usually to be found in the OEM's motorcycle tool case. To carry out this operation, which is always messy, choose a flat surface and prop the motorcycle on its center stand, if it has one. 1 – Loosen the rear axle (without removing the nut) and the tighteners to be able to move the wheel. 2 – Adjust the tighteners, by 8ths or 16ths of a turn simultaneously on both sides (you screw clockwise to tighten the chain in most cases). When the ideal adjustment is found, check the alignment once more. 3 – Tighten the locknuts, tighten the rear wheel axle and check once again the alignment of the wheel as it may shift during these two operations. 4 – After this adjustment, lubricate the chain with Chain Lube Road for road bikes, Chain Lube Offroad for offroad bikes or Chain Lube Factoryline for race bikes. Spray the inside of the chain, in other words the lower run and the little plates on each side. Check that all the length has been well treated and that no projections have reached the brake or the tyre tread. Offroad Motorcycles: For offroad applications the chains vertical mobility should be between 2 to 2 1/2 inches (not too loose or too tight) this can be checked with a rag and a measuring tape on the upper chain run behind the chain slider that protects the swingarm. Also check wheel alignment: the index marks on both sides of the swingarm must be at the same level. If you can push the chain up more than 1 inch, it has to much slack and must be tightened. After you have done your check follow the steps above to adjust. Why a specific lubricant? A chain lubricant is a product which must meet high constraints. It must be fluid enough to get between the chain rollers and plates. It must also be thick enough and adhesive enough to withstand high rotations. On top of that it has a water-repellent role, so you can see why oil or grease are ineffective solutions. Last, Chain Lube lubricants come in ideal aerosol packaging with a precision sprayer minimising overspray. To clean the chain, do not use a product that is to aggressive such as gas, which could attack the small rubber O-rings between the rollers. For this operation, the specially formulated Chain Clean cleaner is both effective and protective.

      Washing

      A perfect wash in 5 minutes! Technology now allows you to complete this operation in a breeze and without tiring yourself. The secret to make your motorcycle or scooter look new is called Motul Wash, a biodegradable product specially formulated to effectively clean and protect all the metallic and plastic parts of your motorcycle. As Moto Wash is to be rinsed off with lots of water, choose an appropriate place or one equipped with a pressure washer. In this case, avoid directly spraying the electrical parts, bearings and mechanical joints. In all cases, protect exhaust pipe outlets so as to avoid getting water in them. Using its two-position sprayer, apply Moto Wash on the dirtiest part, especially around the chain. It's special formula easily dissolves lubricant residues without damaging rubber parts such as chain O-rings. Once you have applied Moto Wash, leave it for five minutes so that it has time to act and does all the work itself. Then all you have to do is rinse it off with plenty of water.